I had no shortage of memorable moments while traveling through Southeast Asia.
(Warning: some pictures may contain depictions of nudity and violence.)

Centuries of war, peace, migration, and proselytization have spawned a wonderful mess of different peoples and customs in Southeast Asia. I’d sum up this abundant diversity of cultures with the Thai expression “same, same, but different.” As I journeyed through Cambodia, Thailand, Malaysia, and Vietnam, each country was similar, but also surprisingly different from the last.
Let’s start with the similarities. Southeast Asian people are typically quite young, compared to those in the U.S. or Europe. They love to dress up and take selfies at famous landmarks. Almost everyone practices either Buddhism or Islam, and it’s common for the same person to seek solace in more than one religion. Most speak a language that’s historically related to ancient Indian Sanskrit.
But differences abound too! Cambodians speak more softly and gently, while Vietnamese are louder and pushier. Thais show the most affinity for skin lightening and cosmetic surgery. Malaysians seem more mischievous and free spirited, with adults gleefully jaywalking across busy streets and children running full speed around valuable museum displays.
With this rich tapestry of cultures and local life, it’s no wonder this trip made for memorable moments! I picked the top 12 moments for you read about below. You can also see the best of the rest in pictures of art and museums, food, spiritual landmarks, and local living.
Cambodia










#1 Cradling mine sniffing rats in Siem Reap. Cambodia’s government plans to clear all its land mines by 2030. Here I held one the East African rats that have been trained to sniff out individual land mines, with a degree of precision and meticulousness far exceeding that of dogs.




#2 Meeting survivors at the Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng in Phnom Penh. In the 1970s, the Khmer Rouge sent millions people to torture and death camps. Victims were sent to death for inexplicable reasons like having light (Chinese) skin, wearing glasses, or knowing how to read.
Getting shipped to a interrogation center was a virtual death sentence, but a few clever, fortunate people survived. One such person I met was Sum Rithy. He repaired motorbikes for Khmer Rouge officials, in exchange for better living conditions that kept him alive until the camp was liberated.








Honorable mention goes to shopping at the Central Market bazaar. This market is the best place in town to drive a hard bargain for anything from fresh meat and fish to haircuts to smartphones. Housed in an art deco building from the French colonial era, it was a surprisingly good place to cool off in the middle of the day.





#3 Sharing beers and go-carts in Sihanoukville. One night I watched the sunset over the Gulf of Thailand, as children raced on go-carts and everyone else barbecued and gobbled down skewers of seafood. I tried a few street vendors and picnicked with a few locals who had offered me cans of beer. Cheers and thank you (aw kohn), I said!








Thailand










#4 Taking a selfy in front of the King’s residence in Bangkok. As I passed by the King’s local residence, a police officer offered to take me into the palace grounds for a picture. Imagine the Secret Service showing you past the White House gate for a selfy! I must have a friendly face.










Honorable mention goes to offering a coconut at the Golden Mount. A monk asked me to carry a coconut to the top of this temple, in exchange for free admission to the shrine. I wound my way to the peak, ringing Buddhist bells, and taking in panoramic views of Bangkok all along the way.










#5 Celebrating Halloween on a Saturday night in Bangkok. This small-group food tour took us through the best of Chinatown — we feasted on noodles, spicy pork, Thai soup, crispy tacos, and Chinese donuts. Our leader, Jan, knew all the back-alleys and hidden shops. She even printed off a menu for us, with Thai-English translations of the dishes. After the tour, all six of us piled into a touk touk and we headed off to Khao San, where we shared plenty of whiskey until 3 AM. Yup, we got silly drunk.












#6 Climbing to the highest point in Thailand. I put on a jacket and took a day trip to Doi Inthanon National Park. There I hiked over the source of the Wang and Ping rivers — tributaries that flow through the Thai heartland into the Chao Phraya River and Gulf of Thailand. Waterfalls, rainbows, and hilly jungles made for a day filled with serene beauty.












#7 Celebrating the Lantern Festival on a Thai beach. I rejoiced in the fall celebrations of Loy Krathong and Yi Peng. Southern Thias traditionally float water lanterns for Loy Krathong, while northern Lanna peoples fill the sky with lantern balloons for Yi Peng. In a stroke of brilliance, the Thais merged the two festivals together into a souped-up national holiday that’s loved by all. The local festival I joined had shimmering lanterns, fashion contests, yummy food, and blazing fireworks, that exploded a little too close for comfort.










Malaysia









#8 Exploring the treasures at the Islamic Arts Museum in Kuala Lumpur. This museum has second-to-none artifacts — each one teaching us how cultures spread and intermingled across the Islamic world. Peoples in Africa and the Middle East imported and bootlegged Chinese porcelain. Indian Muslims built empires, amassing stunning jewelry and architectural wonders. South and East Asians melded Arabic calligraphy and architecture with their own local styles.










Honorable mention goes to climbing the steps of the Bitu Caves. This natural cathedral was well worth the 45-minute train ride. There’s not too many temples that have this many monkeys, pilgrimagers, and tourists, all jostling up the same stairs.









#9 Picnicking with friends at the floating Mosque in Malacca. I made a new Japanese friend who coincidentally lives in Fukuoka — the sister-city of Oakland, CA (where I live!). She invited me, along with a few Germans and North Africans, to hang out at the beach next to this mosque. We were blessed to hear Thursday night prayers for the start of the Jumu’ah sabbath.









Honorable mention goes to visiting the Malacca prison museum. The Malacca prison museum is a must-see! It’s more than just an inside look at life in a Malaysian prison — it has thought-provoking exhibits on corporal punishment, capital punishment, and rehabilitation. I was quite moved by the exhibit on art therapy that empowers convicts to express themselves non-verbally.










Another honorable mention goes to flying in a propeller plane from Malacca to Penang. Traveling in this propeller plane, operated by a budget airline, took me to the edge of my comfort zone. You may be surprised to know that the ride was slow, but reasonably smooth and without incident.

Vietnam










#10 Cruising through hillside beaches of Hai Long Bay. Our tour group (Intro Vietnam) hopped on an overnight boat in north Vietnam. The most peaceful and mesmerizing moment of this trip was watching this hilly coastline gradually pass by.










#11 Trekking through Ninh Binh & Hang Mua viewpoint. We took all kinds of transportation through rice fields, rivers, and caves to make it to this stunning viewpoint. We hiked up 486 steps to the top of Hang Mua, with the sun beating down on us. It was worth it — I can tell you these pictures do not do this place justice.










#12 Creating and lighting a lantern in Hoi An. Each night this central Vietnamese town is lit up with thousands of lanterns of every shape and color. As though I was doing arts and crafts at school, I glued and snipped together the red and green lantern that’s in the top left picture. Not bad for my first time!









Honorable mention goes to listening and learning at the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City (Sai Gon). Anyone interested in U.S. or Vietnamese history should go to this museum that unflinchingly puts on display the horror and moral bankruptcy of the U.S. war in Vietnam. Unexploded bombs and Agent Orange contamination continue to cause human suffering, almost 50 years after the last U.S. and allied solders left the country.










One response to “December 2022”
Thank you, Oliver. I really enjoyed this particular edition. Happy new year!
Sent from my iPhone Please excuse typos
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